Glosario

Glossary

Kite in Achí "Riplotil" (ancestral figure): This figure represents that relatives who have already passed away are brought present. In several towns in Guatemala, the tradition of flying kites as a family from October to November 1 continues, the main reason is to remember those who died. There are several meanings of this figure and they vary from town to town, but the truth is that it is used to remember and unite the family.

Bastidor (Embroidery Frame) : it is a frame of two wooden, plastic or metal rings, which are parallel to each other that serves to press the guipiles or fabrics. It is a very necessary tool for artisans who are dedicated to embroidery, as it keeps the fabric extended.

Blonda (Lace) : silk lace which adorn blouses and some güipiles from Guatemala, cooked in folds or folded around the neck.

Bordado (Embroidery) : creation of figures through different needle stitches using threads and other flexible elements. In Guatemala there are many peoples that, through family education, continue to preserve ancestral stitches and with specific meanings.

Brocado (Brocade): creation of figures by means of supplementary or additional wefts during weaving. They are generally of various colors and of different materials. The more colors a figure has, the more valuable it is.

Brocado de una sola cara (Single-sided brocade): refers to when the brocade figures are only seen on the front of the fabric, therefore, on the back the figure is not visible or is very difficult to identify. This technique is frequently used in Guatemalan textiles.

Brocado de dos caras (Two-sided brocade): refers to when the brocaded figures are seen on the front of the fabric and their negative shape can be seen on the back. This technique can be seen in güipiles made on a foot loom when the figures are thrown, also in the “Poch'on” technique.

Brocado de doble cara (Double-sided brocade): the brocade figures on the front of the fabric are identical to those on the back of the fabric. To do this, an additional one-way weft pass has to be worked, a return pass between two ordinary weft passes. This technique is carried out in a few towns in the department of Sacatepéquez in Guatemala.

Brocado de trama suplementaria (Supplemental Weft Brocade): decorative technique whereby additional or supplemental weft threads are added to create patterns as the fabric is being woven on the backstrap or standing loom.

Kajyub '(ancestral figure) : represents a sacred place of the Achí, it is mentioned in the Popol Vuh and currently the place exists. The name means "mountain that touches the sky." It is a place that for centuries is used to make wishes, who fulfills them is a snake who protects and lives in that place thus helping its inhabitants. This ancient figure is commonly used in Achí and Kaqchikel clothing.

Calado (Openwork) : Work that is done with a needle in a fabric or fabric, drawing or joining threads, so that there are holes in a part of the fabric weft. This technique is currently used to make the garment feel fresh when worn.

Chachal : ancestral necklace made of precious stones, silver coins, charms and sometimes crosses.

Copa (Cup) in Achí "Tijob'al ya' ”: this figure represents sharing and harmony with each other, it is a fusion of Mayan and Christian beliefs. This figure is usually found brocade in blouses and güipiles of Baja Verapaz.

Espada or “Kema' ”: Wood with a thin straight face and another thick curved face, which due to its weight is used by the weaver to press the weft and brocades.

Gola : folded over-neck that used to be placed on the ceremonial guipil of the brotherhood or the guipil in western communities, which was decorated with embroidery.

Güipil : garment of pre-Hispanic origin with which Mayan women cover their torso. It is derived from the Nahuatl huipilli vocabulary and is called “po’t” in the Mayan languages. Traditionally it is decorated with colors and elements such as stripes and / or designs associated with a particular town. It is made with fabric woven on a waist or foot loom, whether brocade or plain, embroidered by hand or machine, etc. although also with commercial fabric. Sometimes it has a collar or sleeves.

Hebra (Strand): is the simplest continuous spun fiber aggregate suitable for the construction of a fabric.

Hecho con aguja (Made with needle - Chi b'aq): one-sided brocade with discontinuous floating supplementary weft, made with the help of a bone or wood needle.

Hecho con Palillos (Made with Sticks - Chi xik'a'y): single-sided brocade with continuous supplementary weft. It is done with the help of a series of marker sticks. On the loom, it is between the beginning and the middle of the design.

Hundido (Ch'eken - Sinking): lower or upper bar of the backstrap loom.

Hilar (Wind): Process of grouping, stretching and twisting the fibers to form a continuous thread.

Jaspe or knotting technique: reserve dyeing technique that is carried out on the skein. The segments are reserved with cords, with which the skein is tied or knotted tightly to prevent the dye from penetrating.

Kumatzin (Serpenteado): design in the form of a zig-zag.

Kyeq (red): Portion of the color spectrum that includes red and part of the surrounding colors.

Kyeq Po’t (red güipil): güipil or over güipil from San Juan Comalapa. It is distinguished by having belief.

Lizo or Chocoyo : backstrap loom stick that, together with the separating roll, serves to lift the even and odd threads from the warp during the weaving process.

Marcador (guide design) : diagram that reproduces designs, stitches (especially cross stitch or cross stitch) and colors to be imitated in embroidery work or supplementary weft brocade.

Municipio : in Guatemala it designates the territorial unit into which a department is subdivided and which includes a municipal seat and smaller units such as villages or hamlets. It is considered the primary referent of identity in the traditional indigenous population.

Paya : small cloth cloth, generally made of cotton that is embroidered and then applied to a veil worn by the confreres on ceremonial occasions.

Randa : decorative handmade embroidery with which the edges of the güipil canvases, cuts or skirts and su’ts or multipurpose cloths are joined.

Ranta : name given to the randa in Quetzaltenango.

Servilleta (Napkin) : in indigenous culture it refers to a cloth of multiple uses, either to wrap foods such as tortillas and breads or to cover baskets, etc.

Sobregüipil : garment that is worn over the güipil, although in some cases it is placed as a veil, it differs from the güipil by being made with better quality materials and by its shape, way of use and size since it is usually longer or wider. Some have the same colors of the güipil, but others are totally different, as well as a greater tenure to preserve the distinctive features of their community of origin.

Su't : multipurpose cloth that is usually square or rectangular and that varies according to the tradition of each community, depending on the size, type of decoration and use that is given, whether continuous or ceremonial. It is used to carry children, carry groceries, cover heads, arms or shoulders and protect from the sun. The brothers dress or use them to hold ritual objects and sacred images, wrap bread and cover tables, among others. Some are formed by a single canvas, others by one cut in two or by two canvases, both joined by means of a simple or decorative seam (randa). Men and women use it, differing from each other.

Retorcido (B'oq'otin): Combined two-color thread that is achieved by twisting two threads of different colors.

Técnica de Bucles o Chivo (Loops or goat technique): Recognized as velvet fabric. It is formed by the introduction of extra weft threads, at regular intervals, which are not stretched over their entire length, but remain partially loose on one side, forming the loops, loops or clips.

Técnica de tejido o ligamento (Weaving or weave technique): is the way the warp and weft are intertwined according to an order.

Técnica superestructurales (Superstructural techniques): decoration technique that are carried out on a fabric and that do not alter its structure, such as embroidery or brocade.

Tejido (Weaving): process that consists of perpendicularly crossing the threads to form a cloth.

Tejido llano (Plain weave): is the simplest weave, which consists of crossing a weft thread with a warp thread.

Tejido de Cintura (Backstrap loom) : instrument made up of a minimum of seven sticks, named for the way the weaver adjusts a leather strap called mecapal to her waist, at one end, and at the other, ties a tree or post to tighten the warp. Of pre-Hispanic origin, the indigenous women of Guatemala weave canvases on it to make garments such as güipiles, sobregüipiles, girdles, su’ts, shirts and pants.

Telar de Pie (Foot loom) : instrument of European origin that is used to weave garments such as skirts and su’ts, which is operated by means of pedals.

Tejido llano balanceado (Balanced plain weave): structure in which warps and wefts keep equivalent spaces and are identical or approximately equal, with respect to size and flexibility. Consequently, you will have the same number of warp and weft threads per unit of measure.

Tejido Llano o Simple (Plain or simple weave): generic term used to designate the structure with the simplest criss-cross, in which the step above and below each warp unit is alternately alternated, for each weft unit.

Teñido en reserva (Reserve dyeing): procedure, or method that consists of reserving a segment of the skeins of yarns or fabric, so that, when immersed in the dyeing solution, painted parts and undyed segments remain.

Trama (Weft) : horizontal threads that are crossed with a coil through the warp threads to form the structure of a fabric.

Trama predominante (Predominant weft): the fabric has a greater number of weft threads per square centimeter than warp, the latter being almost completely covered.

Tramar (to weft): interweave or intertwine the threads of the weft with those of the warp, through the shed, to weave a fabric.

Trama suplementaria (Supplementary wefts): additional wefts that are used during the knitting process.

Tramas suplementarias continuas (Continuous supplementary wefts): wefts that run through the warp from one end to the other, continuously.

Tramas suplementarias discontinuas (Additional discontinuous wefts): wefts that partially run through the warp.

Tramas suplementarias flotantes (Floating supplementary wefts): Supplementary wefts that float through the warp, to form the designs.

Trama suplementarias envolventes (Wrapping supplementary wefts): supplementary wefts that wrap the warp when forming brocaded designs.

Urdidor (Warper): instrument where the threads are prepared to form the warps.

Urdimbre (Warp) : vertical threads of a fabric.

Urdimbre Predominante (Predominant warp): the fabric has a greater number of warp threads per square centimeter than the weft, the latter being almost completely covered.

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